ParadouTravel

Budapest

Budapest, alas your reputation far exceeds your current state of affairs. How so much unlike Prague, is Budapest. Whereas in Prague I was daily saddened by my impending departure, in Budapest I was daily saddened by the fact that I couldn’t leave soon enough. The dichotomy between these two former cities of European grandeur could not be starker. Prague it seems could not wait to throw off its Communist-era malaise, but Budapest seems to be holding on for all its worth. This is apparent in the general state of the city’s upkeep. Most of the buildings are covered in 50 years worth of soot and grime, adding to the gray atmosphere that seems to pervade. The people were less than friendly, and in instances openly prey on the fact that you’re a tourist (a taxi ride that cost 8 euros one day, cost 50 the next). The food, well let’s just say that the highlights were the plate of sausages and potatoes I had from a vendor at the City Market and the hamburger I had at the hotel.

Being troopers, we still tried to make the best of it by seeking out the sights that make Budapest famous – The Királyi vár (Royal Palace), the famous Gellert Baths, and the Budapest Opera House. While all have their charm and beauty, once you’ve seen one European Royal Palace…well you know the rest.

The baths while interesting, are more interesting as an example of what life was like during the Communist-era than as the luxurious aquatic experience which brings them their fame. In order to gain entry to the actual baths, you must first pass through a myriad of gate keepers, each getting progressively surlier. By the time you get to the pools, accessed through a labyrinth of tunnels that leaves you completely disoriented, read the very authoritarian instruction on what you can and can’t do, what direction you must swim in and have donned the all too attractive hair net, well, the magic is sort of gone.

Which brings us to the Opera House. I think a large component of appreciating an Opera House, is appreciating Opera. Well, I sort of miss the mark on that one. While certainly beautiful, the building is located on Andrássy Ut, the Champs Ellyses of Budapest. That’s what they call it. It’s not what I would call it. Unless since I’ve been there the Champs Ellyses is now an endless collection of boarded-up storefronts with drunks in the doorways, Andrássy Ut is no Champs Ellyses. But I digress. Back to the Opera House. Four hours of Tchaikovsky’s “Queen of Spades”, in straight-back chairs had me longing for the in-flight snacks and the legroom of the chintziest airline. I know, I know, I’m exaggerating a bit, but not much.

The highlight of the trip, which unfortunately was closed while we were there, is the famous Budapest Synagogue, the largest in Europe.

What made our stay bearable was staying at the Budapest Four Seasons. Located in the restored Gresham Palace, a marvel of Art Nouveau architecture, in front of the Chain Bridge was a wonderful experience all its own.

Perhaps given more time we would have been able to seek out the hidden charms of Budapest, the ones on the surface left us wanting.